July 5, 1993 (I was 48)
At Magic Sands eight-foot waves pour ashore
dump dumb boogie boarders all over the beach
Some get out some get good
most just tumble in the soup
mahus from El Segundo
First wave I try I almost die
battered face first on unforgiving bottom
tumbling hard on twisting neck
reverberating hours later
After shower food and sun gone down
moana still plays with my equilibrium
Sand rattles my ears salt seasons my throat
and it will be years before I try to get it out
One recurring message rushes through my blood
This is the way haole necks get broke
No comments:
Post a Comment